DIY electronic match. Electronic match. Scheme, description. For the circuit "Charging unit for a powerful capacitor bank"

They say that you can’t save much on matches, and yet... A simple and practical electronic match, the description of which we bring to the attention of readers, will save you from the need to constantly ensure that matchboxes do not remain empty.

The “match” works as follows. Accumulated by capacitor C1 (see. schematic diagram) electricity from the 220 V network is converted into a spark from which the gas ignites in the kitchen stove burner. The charging time of C1 to the amplitude value of the mains voltage is 2-3 s. and only 0.1 s is enough to discharge it.

Structurally, the “match” is made in the form of a cylinder consisting of two mats (see figure). Radioelements are placed inside one, the other protects the ends of the spark gap from accidental short circuit, otherwise a “match” connected to the network immediately disables the diode VD1, which protects against shock from the discharge of capacitor C1 (when touching the current collectors of a plug removed from the power socket), since With respect to the polarity of the voltage, the diode in it is switched in the opposite direction.

The “match” is assembled from any available materials. Plastic shampoo bottles 100 mm long were used as a composite body. The dimensions of the parts are selected according to their dimensions.

Two holes are drilled in the bottom of the case for current collectors from a standard power plug, the distance between which is calculated for the corresponding socket. Six more 01 mm holes are made on the side - two each with a pitch of 120 * - for attaching the capacitor.

Next, a circuit board is made from foiled fiberglass laminate with a thickness of 1...1.5 mm. The foil is cut with a knife into 4 segments (see Fig. 1. To which a diode and a resistor are soldered, as well as multi-core insulated wires ISO mm long for connection to the capacitor. The board is attached to the inside of the case using current collectors and nuts.

The spark gap is made from 02.5 mm welding electrodes. Vinyl chloride tubes are put on them and inserted into the holes of a wooden holder. At one end, the electrodes of the spark gap are sharpened with a file, and at the other they are soldered to the terminals of the capacitor. Moreover, the sections of the electrodes intended for soldering are pre-wrapped with 00.2 mm tinned copper wire.

Using electrical tape, three brackets made of 01 mm copper wire are secured to the capacitor body in increments of 120*, with a “reserve” in length. The wires coming from the board are soldered to the capacitor, and then, threading the ends of the brackets into the holes on the side of the case, the capacitor is inserted into it along with the spark gap and half the length of the wooden holder. A layer of Moment glue is first applied to this area to secure the holder in the body. In addition, the terminals of the brackets are bent along it from the outside, thereby fixing the “insides” of the structure. Their excess is cut to length, and the remaining ends of the staples are glued to the body or wrapped with electrical tape.

A protective cap is placed on the other half of the electrode holder, located outside the housing.

The “match” can be constantly plugged into a power outlet, so it is always ready for use. To light a gas stove burner, remove the “match” from the socket, remove the protective cap, bring it to the burner, open the gas and squeeze the spark gap until the sharpened ends of the electrodes close - a spark appears. When the spark gap is released, the elastic electrodes return to their original position. Put on the protective cap, and the “match” is reinserted into the power outlet until next time.

With prolonged use, the surface of the electrodes becomes “knocked out” over time. Therefore, it is periodically necessary to clean the places of their mutual contact with a file so that the ends of the spark gap are always sharpened to concentrate the discharge energy of the capacitor in a narrow part.

The diode can be replaced with any other one with similar parameters.

Good day, dear homemade people.
In this article, AKA KASYAN will show you the process of assembling the “eternal match”. Of course, not entirely eternal.

Classically, such products are a small sealed container with flammable liquid fuel inside. The second element of such devices is flint, chirkash.
In short, it is something between a lighter and a match.

Naturally they are not eternal. The fuel runs out, and the flint, wick, and other parts also wear out.
The author is friendly with electronics, and mechanical problems are not his thing. He will make an unusual electronic match.

The author's version belongs to the class of plasma or electric arc.

Main components.
The main power source is a 3.7V battery.
High voltage voltage converter.
Additional power source, solar battery.
Tact button and ON/OFF switch.
The battery charging unit is a regular diode and a zener diode.
FUM tape or tape.
Wires 0.5mm and 0.05mm

The author will make the boost converter himself. For those who don’t like winding transformers by hand, you can skip part of the article and buy one in China for a couple of dollars. Although everyone should know the basics of making a transformer from junk, just in case;)

So, the converter is powered by a battery. The generated output voltage is several thousand volts.

A high-frequency, high-voltage arc is formed on the electrodes, which has a very high temperature.

The arc can melt tin solder, even copper electrodes, from the sharp ends of which it is formed.

In short, setting fire to almost any flammable material with such a lighter is not difficult.
Dead or unnecessary pulse block nutrition. From a computer, printer, scanner, or anything.

We will confiscate the pulse transformer from it. It is on its basis that a high-voltage converter will be built.

The author takes a transformer from the standby power supply unit. It's almost completely stripped for parts computer unit nutrition.

Try to choose the same one as the author’s, with an elongated core.

This will make winding easier. The found transformer must be disassembled.

The ferrite core, as usual, is made of two W-shaped halves.

These halves are glued to each other. To disconnect, we simply heat the core.
We carry out this action with a soldering iron, heating the core for several minutes. You can also use a hair dryer, an oven, a soldering station with a thermal blower. Use them with caution, do not melt the plastic insert. The adhesive release temperature is usually 140-160°C.

Separate the halves from one another.
The removed halves have a gap between the central strips.

For the inverter circuit that the author will use, this non-magnetic gap is needed in a good way.
Although the scheme will function without it.
The author removed the core and now winds all available windings. You need to leave one plastic frame.

Starts winding the primary. It is wound with a 0.5mm wire, having previously folded it in half.

The diameters of the wire used can be in the range from 0.2mm to 0.8mm
There is no point in using a thicker one. Optimal diameters are 0.4mm - 0.7mm.
Winds 8 turns.

Outputs the second end of the winding.

It insulates by wrapping several layers of fluoroplastic tape, or usually transparent tape, over the winding.

Next, take a thin wire.

The author took it from the coil winding of a 12-Volt relay.

Actually, a thin wire can also be found in the secondary windings of 5V - 12V low-power transformers. The required wire thickness is about 0.05 mm.

A stranded high-voltage wire with a thick insulating layer is soldered to the beginning of the secondary winding.

The soldering area is insulated with heat shrink tube; choose double-layer tubes with glue inside.

Brings out the wire and fixes it with hot glue. For additional insulation and high-quality fixation.

Begins to wind the secondary winding. It is difficult to wind thread to thread, but it is not necessary. Just do it carefully.

Each layer of the winding consists of one hundred to one hundred twenty turns.

Between each layer we must insulate with 2-3 layers of insulation.

To avoid breakdown, the interlayer transition is made inside the insulation, not reaching the edge.

We wind the first layer from left to right, the second - in the opposite direction.

Using this principle, insulating each layer, we wind ten to twelve layers. The number of layers must be even, so that both leads come out on the same side.

The secondary winding, in the end, will have to consist of 1000 - 1440 turns.

Having finished winding, we cut off the wire, solder the stranded explosive wire, and insulate the soldering area. In general, the same as at the beginning.

Finally fixes all the windings in several layers of tape.

Reassemble the transformer in reverse order.

Having installed the core halves, secure it again with heat-resistant tape.

If the wire breaks during the secondary winding process, you can solder it, but strengthen the insulation in this place.

Let's return to the primary winding.

The primary consists of two separate wires that are wound in parallel.

Let's phase them to get the midpoint.

The diagram is shown in the photo.

The author spent several hours winding this transformer. Patience simply deserves respect!

For lovers of measurements. The resistance of the secondary winding is 320 Ohms.

Inductance 139 mlH.

The inductance value of the primary winding is 2.27 μH.

So, 90% of the work is completed. Let's assemble all the prepared elements according to the diagram.

Let's connect the power.

For example, to lithium-ion battery at 3.7V.

The arc is formed at a distance between the electrodes of 0.5-0.8 mm.

It can be stretched up to 1.5 cm.

As the circuit supply voltage increases, the breakdown distance will increase.
If this is your first time winding a transformer, then it’s better not to take risks. If there is a breakdown, you will have to repeat everything again.
Now about the remaining elements of the electronic match.

The author wanted to use an ionistor as a power source.
An ionistor is a “supercapacitor” with a voltage of 2.7 V. Capacitances vary. For example, 100F.

Operating principle of this device simple-conversion constant voltage into high-voltage high-frequency to produce a spark.
But as practice has shown, the main problem in the manufacture of an electric lighter is the high-voltage transformer: firstly, there are very high requirements for it in terms of insulation quality, and secondly, it must also be as miniature as possible.

These requirements are met by the diagram below: a ready-made transformer, TVS-70P1, is used here. This is a line transformer that was used in portable black and white televisions (such as "Yunost" and the like). In the diagram it is indicated as T2 (only a pair of windings is used).

The proposed circuit makes it possible to remove the dependence of the voltage supplied to the high-voltage coil on the response threshold of the dinistor (they are most often used), as is implemented in previously published circuits.
The circuit consists of a self-oscillator on transistors VT1 and VT2, which increases the voltage to 120...160 V using transformer T1 and a thyristor VS1 trigger circuit on elements VT3, C4, R2, R3, R4. The energy accumulated on the capacitor SZ is discharged through winding T2 and an open thyristor.

As for the T1 transformer: it is made on a ring ferrite magnetic core M2000NM1 of standard size K16x10x4.5 mm. Winding 1 contains 10 turns, winding 2 - 650 turns with PELSHO-0.12 wire.
For other details: capacitors: S1, SZ type K50-35; C2, C4 type K10-7 or similar small-sized ones.
Diode VD1 can be replaced with KD102A, B.
S1 - microswitch type PD-9-2.
Any thyristor can be used with an operating voltage of at least 200 V.
Transformers T1 and T2 are attached to the board with glue.

The device runs on printed circuit board and you can even place it in an empty cigarette pack

The discharge chamber is located between two rigid wires with a diameter of 1...2 mm at a distance of 80...100 mm from the housing. The spark between the electrodes passes at a distance of 3...4 mm.
The circuit consumes a current of no more than 180 mA, and the battery life is enough for more than two hours of continuous operation, however, continuous operation of the device for more than one minute is not advisable due to possible overheating of the VT2 transistor (it does not have a heatsink).
When setting up the device, it may be necessary to select elements R1 and C2, as well as change the polarity of winding 2 of transformer T1. It is also advisable to carry out the adjustment with an uninstalled R2: check the voltage on the SZ capacitor with a voltmeter, and then install resistor R2 and, by monitoring the voltage with an oscilloscope at the anode of the thyristor VS1, make sure that the discharge process of the SZ capacitor is present.
The SZ discharge through the winding of transformer T2 occurs when the thyristor opens. A short pulse to open the thyristor is generated by transistor VT3 when the voltage on the capacitor SZ increases to more than 120V.

The device can also find other applications, for example, as an air ionizer or an electric shock device, since a voltage of more than 10 kV arises between the electrodes of the spark gap, which is quite sufficient to form an electric arc. At low current in the circuit, this voltage is not life-threatening.

This can roughly be called an electric lighter used to ignite gas in the burners of gas stoves. A very convenient and safer device in terms of fire protection than household matches used for this purpose. In principle, you can buy an electric lighter - if, of course, it ends up in a hardware store. But you can make it yourself, which is more interesting from a technical point of view, and you will also need few radio components.

Below we describe two options for a homemade electronic “match” - powered from an electric lighting network and from one small-sized battery D-0.25. In both options, reliable ignition of gas is carried out by an electric spark created by a short current pulse with a voltage of 8...10 kV. This is achieved by appropriate conversion and increasing the voltage of the power source.

The circuit diagram and design of a network lighter are shown in Fig. 1.

Fig.1

The lighter consists of two units connected to each other by a flexible two-wire cord: an adapter plug with capacitors C1, C2 and resistors R1 R2 inside and a voltage converter with a spark gap. This design solution provides it with electrical safety and a relatively small mass of the part that is held in the hand when igniting the gas.

How does the device work overall? Capacitors C1 and C2 act as elements that limit the current consumed by the lighter to 3...4 mA. While the SB1 button is not pressed, the lighter does not consume current. When the contacts of the button are closed, the diodes VD1, VD2 rectify the alternating voltage of the network, and the rectified current pulses charge the capacitor C3. Over several periods of mains voltage, this capacitor is charged to the opening voltage of the dinistor VS1 (for KN102Zh - about 120 V). Now the capacitor quickly discharges through the low resistance of the open dinistor and the primary winding of the step-up transformer T1. In this case, a short current pulse appears in the circuit, the value of which reaches several amperes.

As a result, a high voltage pulse appears on the secondary winding of the transformer and an electric spark appears between the electrodes of the E1 spark gap, which ignites the gas. And so - 5-10 times per second, i.e. with a frequency of 5...10 Hz.

Electrical safety is ensured by the fact that if the insulation is broken and one of the wires connecting the adapter plug to the converter is touched by hand, the current in this circuit will be limited by one of the capacitors C1 or C2 and will not exceed 7 mA. A short circuit between the connecting wires will also not lead to any dangerous consequences. In addition, the arrester is galvanically isolated from the network and is also safe in this sense. Capacitors C1, C2, the rated voltage of which must be at least 400 V, and the resistors R1, R2 shunting them are mounted in an adapter plug housing, which can be made of sheet insulating material (polystyrene, plexiglass) or a plastic box of supply sizes can be used for this. The distance between the centers of the pins that connect it to a standard power socket should be 20 mm.

The rectifier diodes, capacitor C3, dinistor VS1 and transformer T1 are mounted on a printed circuit board measuring 120 x 18 mm, which, after testing, is placed in a plastic handle case of appropriate dimensions. Step-up transformer T1 is made on a 400NN ferrite rod with a diameter of 8 and a length of about 60 mm (a section of the rod intended for the magnetic antenna of a transistor receiver). The rod is wrapped in two layers of insulating tape, on top of which a secondary winding is wound - 1800 turns of PEV-2 wire 0.05-0.08. Winding in bulk, smooth from edge to edge. We must strive to ensure that the serial numbers of overlapping turns in the layers of wire are out of one hundred. The secondary winding along its entire length is wrapped in two layers of insulating tape and 10 turns of PEV-2 0.4-0.6 wire are wound on top of it in one layer - the primary winding.

KD105B diodes can be replaced with other small-sized ones with acceptable reverse voltage not less than 300 V or diodes D226B, KD205B. Capacitors C1-C3 types BM, MBM; the first two of them must be for a rated voltage of at least 150 V, the third - at least 400 V. The structural basis of the E1 arrester is a piece of metal tube 4 with a length of 100...150 and a diameter of 3...5 mm, at one end of which a metal thin-walled glass 1 with a diameter of 8...10 and a height of 15...20 mm is rigidly fixed (mechanically or by soldering). This glass, with slits in the walls, is one of the electrodes of the E1 arrester. Inside the tube, together with a heat-resistant dielectric 3, for example, a fluoroplastic tube or tape, a thin steel knitting needle 2 is tightly inserted. Its pointed end protrudes from the insulation by 1... 1.5 mm and should be located in the middle of the glass. This is the second, central, electrode of the spark gap.

The discharge gap of the lighter is formed by the end of the central electrode and the wall of the glass - it should be 3...4 mm. On the other side of the tube, the central electrode in insulation should protrude from it by at least 10 mm. The spark gap tube is rigidly fixed in the plastic housing of the converter, after which the spark gap electrodes are connected to the terminals of winding II of the transformer. Soldering areas are reliably insulated with pieces of polyvinyl chloride tube or insulating tape.

If you don’t have a KN102Zh dinistor at your disposal, you can replace it with two or three dinistors of the same series, but with a lower switching voltage. The total opening voltage of such a chain of dinistors should be 120... 150 V. In general, the dinistor can be replaced with its analogue, composed of a low-power thyristor (KU101D, KU101E) and a zener diode, as shown in Fig. 2.

Fig.2

The stabilization voltage of a zener diode or several zener diodes connected in series should be 120...150 V. The diagram of the second version of the electronic “match” is shown in Fig. 3.

Fig.3

Due to the low voltage of battery G1 (D-0.25), it was necessary to apply a two-stage voltage conversion of the power source. In the first such stage, a generator operates on transistors VT1, VT2, assembled according to a multivibrator circuit, loaded onto the primary winding of step-up transformer T1. In this case, an alternating voltage of 50... 60 V is induced on the secondary winding of the transformer, which is rectified by diode VD3 and charges capacitor C4. The second stage of conversion, which includes dinistor VS1 and step-up transformer T2 with spark gap E1 in the secondary winding circuit, works in the same way as a similar unit in a network lighter. Diodes VD1, VD2 form a half-wave rectifier, periodically used to recharge the battery. Capacitor C1 dampens excess network voltage. Plug X1 is installed on the lighter body. The circuit board for this type of lighter is shown in Fig. 4.

Fig.4

Magnetic core high voltage transformer T2 is a ring made of ferrite 2000 NM or 2000NN with an outer diameter of 32 mm. The ring is carefully broken in half, the parts are wrapped in two layers of insulating tape and 1200 turns of PEV-2 wire 0.05-0.08 are wound on each of them. Then the ring is glued with BF-2 or “Moment” glue, the halves of the secondary winding are connected in series, wrapped in two layers of insulating tape and the primary winding is wound on top of it - 8 turns of PEV-2 wire 0.6-0.8 (Fig. 5).

Fig.5

Transformer T1 is made on a ring made of the same ferrite as the magnetic core of transformer T2, but with an outer diameter of 15...20 mm. The manufacturing technology is the same. Its primary winding, which is wound second, contains 25 turns of PEV-2 0.2-0.3 wire, the secondary winding contains 500 turns of PEV-2 0.08-0.1. Transistor VT1 can be KT502A-KT502E, KT361A-KT361D; VT2 - KT503A - KT503E. Diodes VD1 and VD2 - any rectifier with a permissible reverse voltage of at least 300 V. Capacitor C1 - MBM or K73, C2 and C4 - K50-6 or K53-1, C3 - KLS, KM, KD.

The switching voltage of the dinistor used should be 45...50 V. The design of the spark gap is exactly the same as that of a network lighter. Setting up this version of an electronic “match” comes down mainly to a thorough check of the installation, the design as a whole and the selection of resistor R2. This resistor must be of such a value that the lighter operates stably when the voltage of the battery supplying it is from 0.9 to 1.3 V. It is convenient to control the degree of battery discharge by the frequency of sparking in the spark gap. As soon as it drops to 2...3 Hz, this will be a signal that the battery needs to be recharged. In this case, plug X1 of the lighter must be connected to the mains for 6...8 hours.

When using a lighter, its spark gap must be removed from the flame immediately after ignition of the gas - this will extend the life of the spark gap.

This publication has a great idea on how to make an electric match with your own hands. To do this you will need an 18650 battery, electrical tape, nichrome wire, wire cutters, pliers, regular wire, 2 blades, a utility knife, sandpaper, and a plastic clamp.

If you don’t want to make such a design yourself, then take a look at this store, which is interesting for lovers of all sorts of useful and inexpensive things.

Actions step by step

First you need to take the wire and align it perfectly. A small piece will be enough. Now you need to cut it in the middle. You get two contact wires that need to be attached to the poles of the battery and bent at an angle of 90 degrees. Now we take one wire, apply it to the battery and bend it approximately in the middle. We do the same with the second wiring.

Now we expose these two wires from the insulation on the side that will lie on the battery. We install one wire on the battery and secure it with electrical tape. At the end of the second piece we make a ring using tweezers. We also fix it on the battery using electrical tape. Next, we take nichrome wire with a diameter of 0.4 millimeters and wind it around a thin screwdriver or nail, making 3-4 turns.

Now you need to remove the metal parts from the two terminal blocks. Next, you need to take the battery and leave 0.5 centimeters at the ends of the wire. We screw the terminal blocks onto these contacts.
We take a spiral of nichrome wire and bend the contacts. We insert the spiral into the terminal blocks and screw it on. We install the clamp between them. Electric lighter ready. Now you can check it

A battery-powered electric lighter can be charged using a standard charger.

The second model of a homemade electric match

In this story from the TOKARKA video magazine, we’ll look at a solid and difficult-to-manufacture model of an electronic match, which will serve perfectly when you run out of gas or gasoline. It runs on one AA battery or rechargeable battery. In this case, a 1.2 volt battery with a capacity of 2400 milliamps is used.
The head part is machined from duralumin. The button is made of brass. The switch contains a contact pad and the output of the filament coil. The other platform will be located outside, it will be secured with a small screw. There is a spring from the remote control inside the case remote control. The battery will be installed on top of it.

Pins from the contact pad are used as racks for filaments motherboard. You can use them instead copper wires sufficient rigidity.

The nichrome thread was used from a faulty hair dryer. It is necessary to select the length of the filament so that it does not burn red hot. It is desirable that the temperature on it be 500-600 degrees, but no more. When it gets red hot, a reaction occurs with the air and it will gradually burn out, so you will have to change it. You can conduct an experiment and find the temperature at which the coil will be very hot, enough to ignite objects, but not red-hot. It can be dark, dark cherry color, but not bright.