How to assemble a computer. What is the difference between a home computer and an office and gaming computer? Assembling a computer with your own hands - step-by-step instructions How to properly assemble a system unit

Sometimes it happens that the computer that is in the house, due to its advanced age, began to work poorly, or, even worse, it simply died a quiet and unexpected death. Or, perhaps, everything is not so dramatic and the old iron machine is simply tired of its owner, who always strives to keep up with new technologies.

There can be many reasons why there is a need or desire to acquire a new computer. But the question is not even that, but where to get it. new computer. Of course, you can simply buy it at your nearest hardware store. But, you can assemble it yourself, which is much more interesting and, importantly, significantly increases self-esteem. And such a computer will be much more functional than its store-bought counterpart, since you can select parts for it at your discretion.

Almost every user can assemble a computer on their own. But in order to do this correctly, it is necessary to tighten up the theory a little about computer internals and about what should be inserted, screwed, connected, etc. where and in what order. In addition, the theoretical part will be very useful for those who have decided to build a computer for the first time. It is precisely so that such beginners do not have trembling in their hands and an irresistible desire to find valerian in the closet, this article was written, which is essentially instructions for assembling a computer, and even with illustrations. Therefore, there is nothing to be afraid of, grab a screwdriver and go!

What you need to have with you:

· A longer Phillips screwdriver (you can use a regular one, but it will be more difficult).

·Ring-nose pliers (pliers).

·Plastic ties or clamps.

·Medicines (for the most suspicious).

Assembly and installation motherboard into the body

The first step is to assemble all the proper components for the motherboard. The motherboard itself is shown in the figure below. Let's look at its components:

1.CPU socket (socket);

2. Sockets for RAM (their number may vary, 4 are shown here);

3. Connector for video card;

4. Motherboard power socket;

5.SATA connector;

6. Front panel connectors.

These components of the motherboard will be discussed in more detail below during the assembly.

Processor Installation

A processor is a small flat square with contacts on one side. There are no other similar parts in the computer, so it is quite difficult to confuse the processor with something else.

In order to correctly insert the processor into the socket, you need to do it in a certain way. One of the corners of the processor has a special mark in the form of a triangle. Your task is to find this corner on the part, then release the fasteners on the motherboard, find the same corner in the processor socket (socket) and insert the processor so that the marks match.

Before securing the processor, it is very important to make sure that it is inserted smoothly, since attempting to close an incorrectly inserted part can lead to damage to the processor contacts or their complete breakage.

Cooler installation

A cooler, or, in other words, a fan, is installed on the processor. But first, the surface of the processor must be smeared with thermal paste, unless, of course, it is applied to the surface of the cooler.

To make the layer thin, the paste (which should be about the size of a pea) can be spread over the surface using a piece of cardboard or plastic card. After the processor is lubricated, you need to install the cooler and secure it using special legs, as shown in the picture.

Installing RAM

In the image of the motherboard, the RAM slots are shown as number 2. Their number may vary. The RAM sticks themselves look as shown in the following picture. In order to insert RAM into the slot, you need to open the plastic clips that are located at the edges of the slot. Then directly insert the bar vertically until it stops. If the procedure is done correctly, then the clips will snap into place by themselves.

If you have identical RAM sticks, it is better to insert them into slots of the same color. This will make it possible to significantly speed up your computer.

Installing the motherboard in system unit

After the motherboard is fully equipped, you need to insert it into the computer case, which looks like this.

The motherboard is installed on the side wall of the unit. Don't worry if you notice that there are more mounting holes in the case than necessary. This is necessary so that you can install motherboards of different sizes.

First, you need to “try on” the motherboard, placing it tightly against the case. This is necessary to see if the motherboard connectors fit into the protective panel. If everything matches, the motherboard can be mounted. If something does not match, then you need to break out the protective plate with the holes using pliers and insert another panel there.

Installing a hard drive, drive, video card

To install the drive or HDD It doesn’t take much effort, the main thing is to know what to connect with what. Yes, to connect hard drive or the drive uses the SATA data channel, which is shown in the first figure as number 5.

A pair of cables for connection are included with the motherboard, so you don’t have to look for them. The cables can be connected to any SATA pins.

Since usually not one hard drive is installed, but several, you need to remember one important point. Install hard disks It's best not to be too close to each other. Typically, a system unit has three or more slots for hard drives. Therefore, you can install one hard drive in the bottom cell, and one in the top, so that air circulates between them, which prevents overheating of the surfaces of the parts.

If all the hard drive slots are occupied, then it is advisable to install an additional fan for cooling hard drives, since overheating significantly shortens their service life.

The slot for connecting a video card is located in the image at number 3. The video card itself looks like this.

Connecting it is not difficult, but first you also need to “try on” the video card to the slot. This is done in order to determine exactly where to insert the card and which plug will have to be removed from the back wall of the computer. The further process is identical to connecting the RAM: insert it straight and all the way. The final touch is to secure the video card with a special mount or bolt.

Installing the power supply

The power supply looks like a metal box with many wires coming out of it. The system unit has a special place for the power supply. It is clearly depicted below.

The power supply is inserted so that the network output and the button are on the outside, and the bundle of wires is on the inside.

After the power supply is in place, you need to connect the wires. First, connect the widest plug to the motherboard. It is difficult to confuse it with another wire, since it consists of 24 segments, which are usually called pins. However, 4 of these pins can be “separated” and form a separate cable that can be attached to the main one if necessary. This is necessary so that the power supply can be connected not only to modern motherboards, but also to old ones that have only 20 pins.

This cable is a weave of four wires: two yellow and two black. The place where it needs to be connected is usually located above the processor and is a four-pin input.

The power cables for the drive and hard drive are as follows.

It is not difficult to find where such a cable is inserted, since it has a special shape and will only fit into its place.

In this case, it will also not be difficult to find what and where to insert. But, you need to pay attention to the fact that there are video cards that do not have a connector for the power cable. This means that the spare part is an old model and it has enough power received from the motherboard. In this case, power from the unit is simply not connected.

Additionally, such wires come out of the power supply.

They are necessary to connect the Floppy diskette and card reader.

Connecting the Front Panel Connectors

The front panel on the system unit also has many elements that require connection to the motherboard. This could be a power button, a reset button, indicator lights, USB ports, and more. The connection cables are as follows.

Power SW – is responsible for the computer’s power button.

Reset SW – responsible for the reset button.

Power LED – responsible for LED power indication.

H.D.D. LED – an LED that shows the operation of the hard drive.

MIC-IN – microphone output.

Spkout L, R – Right and left speaker outputs.

GND – ground to the microphone and speaker contacts.

It is also important to connect all these elements correctly because otherwise the machine will not turn on. Any motherboard has a kind of block of contacts, which are called Front panel (F-panel) and look like this.

These wires are connected according to the instructions that come with the motherboard. But if there is no such instruction, it’s not scary. There are hints on the motherboard itself that you can use. They are usually located next to the F-panel.

There is also a USB connector on the front panel of the computer (system unit). There may be one, or there may be several. This also includes ports for connecting a microphone, headphones and speakers. This whole “structure” looks something like this.

To connect all these elements you also need cables (so-called pins). The appearance of the required pins is shown in the picture below.

Fortunately, they all come included and connect to the motherboard, namely to blocks called F-USB1 and F-USB2. The color of these blocks and location on the motherboard may be different, but the components are the same.

The ports for connecting audio inputs look similar, but differ in the position and number of pins. They connect quite simply, if only because they simply won’t fit into other blocks. In addition, you can always use the tips in the instructions, if, of course, there are any.

At this point, the main assembly of the computer can be considered complete. All that remains is to connect a variety of additional elements, such as a keyboard, mouse, speakers and other small things. And then you can enjoy the subject of your labor.

Finally, a few more points about assembling computers yourself. In addition to the pleasure of the work done, you can get significant cost savings, which can amount to 20% of the cost of the finished computer. In addition, self-assembly allows you to gain important skills in working with this type of equipment. These skills can be useful when the question arises about the need to repair a computer or its components. There is also no need to call a specialist to set up your computer, because you can do it all yourself and thereby save a lot of time and money.

Still, it is necessary to pay attention to some negative factors. In the computer parts market, there is a possibility of purchasing a defective item. Therefore, you need to take a responsible approach to choosing components for your future computer and carefully study the theory of its assembly. By following these simple recommendations, you will build a wonderful computer that will last for a long time.

3DNews has a large and diverse audience. The resource is visited by both seasoned enthusiasts who have assembled more than one PC, and readers who are just beginning to delve into all the intricacies of computer technology. The test laboratory elegantly overclocks them to serious frequencies, to study the durability of drives, in modern games and to purchase unusual hardware abroad, but at the same time does not forget about inexperienced users. This is how the “” section appeared, which offers various configurations of system units. After reading the comments and personal communication with the readers of the site, it became clear to me that it was time to tell in detail and show beginners how to assemble the components proposed in the article into a single whole. This is exactly what this material is dedicated to.

⇡ Selection and compatibility of components

Sometimes deciding on the set of components that will make up your PC is more difficult than assembling the system unit yourself at home. You can find a huge number of processors, motherboards and video cards on sale. You can argue for a long time about which brand is preferable, as well as debate about whose graphics are faster, the main thing is that when you finally choose a configuration, all the hardware is fully compatible with each other. By the way, these are the systems I propose in “”. If you follow this rule, assembling a system unit is not much different from playing with a construction set in which all the parts fit together. The dimensions of components, parameters of mounting holes and connectors - all elements of a computer are strictly regulated, and therefore, for example, it cannot be that DDR3 RAM suddenly works on a motherboard with DIMM slots intended for installing exclusively DDR4 modules. You simply won't be able to install them into the appropriate slots.

For the full functioning of the system unit, you must purchase the following devices: motherboard, central processor, cooler, RAM, hard drive or solid-state drive, video card (if the CPU or motherboard does not have a built-in graphics core), power supply and case. Additional components include an optical drive, as well as various discrete devices: network and sound cards, additional cooling.

The motherboard is the basis of any computer. It depends on it which processors will be used, how many RAM modules, video cards and drives can be installed. Dimensions motherboard play an important role when choosing a case. At the moment, among motherboards, the most popular form factor solutions are E-ATX (305 × 330 mm), ATX (305 × 244, 305 × 225 or 305 × 199 mm), mATX (244 × 244, 244 × 225 or 191 × 188 mm) and mini-ITX (170 × 170 mm), although there are much more standard sizes of such devices. The form factor is always indicated in the technical specifications of the cases.

The “housing” itself for components is also divided into types depending on size and shape. As a rule, the larger the computer case, the more efficient hardware we can install in it, while ensuring high-quality cooling of all system components. The dependence, however, is nonlinear - practice shows that it is quite possible to assemble a powerful gaming PC in compact cases with a volume of 7-10 liters. You just have to first select all the components more carefully.

Among PC cases, the most popular are four types of models: Midi-Tower (examples - and ), Full Tower (), Mini-Tower () and Slim Desktop (). Naturally, the more compact the device, the fewer seats it has for installing discrete video cards, drives and case fans. For example, the 10-liter Node 202 can only accommodate 2.5-inch hard drives and SSDs. A conscientious manufacturer indicates all these features in the technical characteristics of the device.

When choosing components, pay attention to other limitations that any computer case has:

• maximum height of the processor cooler;
• maximum video card length;
• maximum length of the power supply.

Before purchasing equipment, be sure to make sure that all devices are compatible with each other, do not conflict, and fit exactly in the computer case. The simplest logical chain that will not allow you to purchase components that do not match each other is as follows:

• We decide on the model of the central processor.
• Select a motherboard with a suitable CPU socket.
• We study the list of compatible motherboard equipment on the official website and select a set of RAM.
• We select drives that are compatible with the motherboard.
• We select a video card, power supply, processor cooling and a case that will accommodate all the components.

Again, the given sequence is by no means an axiom. Since assembling a PC is always a creative process, the sequence of choosing hardware may change. For example, you liked a certain case and want to build your dream system only in it. Or you already have some components on hand and need to buy the rest.

If the system unit will use a maintenance-free water cooling system for the processor or video card, then you will additionally need to find out the sizes of supported radiators, as well as the locations in which they can be installed. Obviously, the mounting locations for the SVO coincide with the mounting locations for the fans. Single-section radiators are usually installed on the rear wall, two-section and three-section - on the top and/or front.

To write this material, based on the above sequence of component selection, I used the following set of devices:

• CPU AMD Ryzen 7 1700, socket AM4, 3.0 (3.7) GHz;
• MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON motherboard, socket AM4, X370 chipset;
• RAM Kingston HyperX Fury (HX426C16FR2K4/32), 4 × 8 GB, DDR4-2666;
• solid state drive;
• video card;
• Cooler Master MasterWatt power supply, 500 W;
• Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition case;
• CPU cooling Cooler Master MasterLiquid 120.

As you can see, the most common form factors are used in preparing this material - ATX for the motherboard and Midi-Tower for the case. Similar options are offered in the “Computer of the Month” - because this standard size is the most universal and is the most popular. True, I can’t say that the assembly process in Mini-Tower and Slim Desktop cases is fundamentally different. It’s just that the requirements for selecting hardware that is compatible with each other are noticeably higher.

Additionally, I would like to note that when selecting devices, all modern trends were taken into account. The main drive is the Kingston HyperX Predator model with a PCI Express interface. And the choice in favor of the Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition was made due to the possibility of installing a power supply at the bottom of the chassis, as well as the presence of a mount for drives on the barrier wall. Plus, maintenance-free liquid cooling systems are very popular. Cooler Master MasterLiquid 120 is a bright representative of single-section “water coolers”, which are ready to work right out of the box. The remaining components are selected in such a way that the end result is a productive system unit for work and entertainment. The optical drive was not used. In my opinion, in 2017 there is no need for it, and the Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition (as well as many other new cases of a similar format) does not have seats for installing devices in 5.25-inch bays.

To assemble the system unit, you will definitely need two Phillips screwdrivers with different slot diameters, nylon ties and wire cutters. Perhaps pliers will come in handy - in cheap cases, the threads are cut by eye, as well as double-sided adhesive tape, degreasing liquid and cotton swabs. In order to avoid scratching the case and damaging the motherboard, I place all components on a rubber mat. An antistatic bracelet or gloves will also be useful for beginners, but, to be honest, more to give confidence in own strength. Since assembling a PC also includes connecting small connectors to the motherboard, you definitely can’t do without good lighting or a flashlight on hand.

⇡ Step No. 1. Installing the processor and RAM

The motherboard user manual always contains a description of the installation of all main components and connectors. Beginners, keep this book with you. The sequence of steps for assembling the system unit may vary depending on the type of components. For example, sometimes it is better to install a processor cooler right away, and sometimes it is better to install it second to last or last. Even before fixing the motherboard in the case, you should install the central processor and RAM in the appropriate slots.

You are probably aware that the design of AMD and Intel processors is noticeably different from each other. Thus, on AMD chips, protruding contacts, called “legs” by hardware, are located directly on the PCB substrate. But Intel chips do not have such elements - for these CPUs the contacts are placed directly in the motherboard socket.

AMD chips are installed very simply: lift the lever, place the processor on a plastic substrate, lower the lever.

As for Intel solutions for LGA115X platforms, a similar technique is used here: together with the lever, we raise the clamping frame, install the processor, lower the lever and the clamping frame.

In case of Intel platforms LGA2011 and LGA2011-v3, to raise the clamping frame, you will need to release two levers from the locking slots.

Please note that all central processors and motherboards are equipped with pointers and so-called foolproof protection. In principle, you will not be able to install the chip into the socket in any other way, so NEVER use force when assembling the computer. All elements in the system unit are equipped with protection against incorrect connection. Apart from the CPU, you won't be able to connect power supply cables, case connectors, fans, discrete devices, drives, or RAM in any other way. More precisely, you can, but this will require maximum effort. I think it’s not worth talking about the consequences of incorrect installation of PC components.

After the central processor, I install RAM in the DIMM slots, usually located on the right side of the central processor. MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON supports DDR4 RAM, printed circuit board Four ports are wired at once. Some motherboards may have only two of them (most often these are either the cheapest devices, or mini-ITX form factor solutions, or), in models for the LGA2011 and LGA2011-v3 platforms there are eight. Typically, all DIMM slots are marked on the PCB.

Most modern AMD and Intel processors have dual-channel RAM controllers. That's why motherboards use either two or four DIMM slots. Therefore, it is considered optimal to install either two or four RAM modules. In the first case, RAM is installed through one connector. Some motherboards have special indicators. For example, in the MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON, modules are installed in the DIMMA2 and DIMMB2 slots - in this case, the RAM will operate in dual-channel mode. In other motherboards there are inscriptions like , - in such cases, to ensure dual-channel mode, the modules must be installed in the DDR4_A1/DDR4_B1, DIMM_A1/DIMM_B1 and DDR4_1/DDR4_2 slots, respectively.

"Fool proof" for RAM

I have already said that it will not be possible to insert RAM incorrectly, since the design of the DIMM connectors uses a jumper. It is also used to prevent the user from “squeezing” modules of a different standard into a motherboard that supports DDR4.

RAM cards are secured using latches located at the edges of the DIMM slots. Some motherboards only have these latches on one side of the connectors. This is done so that the user can easily change RAM modules without, for example, removing the video card.

After installing the CPU and RAM, you can immediately install a CPU cooler, but only if it uses a heatsink in its design small size. The use of an oversized cooling system will complicate the installation of the motherboard, as well as the subsequent connection of wires. The photo above shows examples of installing boxed coolers—the so-called coolers that are sold together with processors. Coolers for the AMD AM3+ and FM2+ platforms are mounted using plastic “ears” - a special metal bracket with eyes clings to them. Box cooling for Ryzen chips is installed differently; here you will have to work with a screwdriver: first remove the plastic mount, and then screw the radiator to the backplate. The cooler for Intel processors is attached using plastic clips: install the heatsink on the CPU and press the latch until you hear a characteristic click. In general, in the case of installing box cooling systems, even beginners should not have any problems.

Thermal paste is already applied to the base of some coolers - its use significantly increases the efficiency of heat removal from the CPU. In any case, thermal paste is always included with the processor cooler. For example, Cooler Master MasterLiquid 120 came with a small tube, which should nevertheless be enough for 3-4 uses. Please don't forget to take off protective film before installing the cooling system, if any, on the base of the device. The process of applying thermal paste is described in point number five.

But the installation of other coolers is done individually, since each manufacturer uses a mounting kit of its own design. Therefore, immediately remove the instructions from the CO packaging. Most devices are equipped with universal mounting mechanisms that fit both AMD and Intel processors. True, the mating part of the mount, which must be pre-fixed on the board, is different for different platforms. The list of supported equipment, as well as cooler dimensions, are always indicated in the technical specifications. And yet there are quite a few models on sale that are compatible with only one specific platform.

Once again: if the device is large or, as in my case, a maintenance-free liquid cooling system is used, then at the first stage it is enough to attach the back plate and frames to the board, which will hold the cooler’s radiator. We will install the radiator itself next to last, after all the cables are connected to the motherboard. Yes, in cases of the Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition level, the barrier wall has a window for access to the cooler's backplate, but it is not always convenient to use.

If we talk about air processor coolers, tower type coolers are considered the most popular. Depending on the platform used and specific model The CO radiator can be installed in two positions. In the first case, the cooler fan will blow air through the rear wall of the case, in the second case, through the top. The correct installation option is determined by the shape of the housing used. So, in the case of models in Full-, Midi- and Mini-Tower formats, it is better to use the first option. It is important that the used CO does not overlap the expansion slots, and also does not rest against the cooling elements of the motherboard power subsystem. For example, the MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON does not conflict with even the largest tower coolers. A wide processor cooler can also prevent the installation of RAM modules with high cooling radiators. Therefore, it is better to use compact RAM kits, such as Kingston HyperX Fury for example, or make 100% sure that CPU cooling and memory will not conflict with each other.

Our assembly uses a maintenance-free liquid cooling system Cooler Master MasterLiquid 120, so its installation will be done penultimately (step No. 5).

The cooler and case fans are connected to the motherboard using 3- and 4-pin connectors. The MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON has six such elements soldered at once, which is very convenient. The number of such ports is not regulated in any way, but at least two connectors must be present on the board: for connecting the CPU cooler fan and for the system (case) impeller. All connectors are marked accordingly: CPU_FAN, SYS_FAN (or CHA_FAN). Sometimes the 4-pin connector intended for the processor cooler is highlighted in a different color (usually white). You can also find the PUMP_FAN connector in mid- and high-price boards. It is designed to connect the rotor of a water cooling pump, but at the same time it is suitable for any other fans. It’s just that a greater current is transmitted through this port.

The three-pin connector does not allow you to adjust the speed of the fan connected to it. But the 4-pin port has such an opportunity, and modern motherboards are able to regulate the rotation speed of the “turntables” both with pulse-width modulation (fans with four contacts) and without it (fans with three contacts).

If there is a shortage of connectors for connecting case fans, all kinds of adapters will help. This can be a regular splitter that allows you to connect several impellers to one 3- or 4-pin port at once. Or a cable connected to a MOLEX or SATA connector. There are also devices such as, although their popularity has never been high. However, they are initially equipped with simple (most often three-position) controllers that control the fan speed by lowering the voltage from 12 to 7 or 5 V.

In the case of our PC, there is no need for additional adapters and splitters, since only two CBO fans and one case impeller need to be connected to the motherboard.

⇡ Step No. 2. Installing the motherboard and connecting case connectors

Now that the CPU and RAM are connected to the motherboard, it's time to start working on the case.

For a long time now, in tower cases the power supply has been installed primarily at the bottom. This was done both for aesthetic reasons (it’s more convenient and easier to lay wires) and for the sake of increasing the cooling efficiency, primarily of the PSU itself. However, there are case models on sale with other options for installing the power supply.

Mounting spaces for installing a power supply, 2.5- and 3.5-inch drives

The design of the Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition includes a small basket with a slide that can accommodate two 3.5-inch hard drives. More compact 2.5-inch drives are mounted on a barrier wall.

Installing the motherboard begins with fixing the I/O panel plug in a specially designated rectangular hole. You won't have any difficulties. The plug is always included with the motherboard.

Mounting accessories are always supplied with the housing. Along with the Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition, I found three types of screws, as well as plastic clips for installing additional fans. Other cases may have more mounting options. On some models, the stand screws required to install the motherboard are already screwed into the corresponding threaded holes on the barrier wall. In the case of Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition, you will have to do this procedure yourself.

So, the case supports the installation of motherboards of mini-ITX, mATX, ATX and even E-ATX form factors. There are symbols on the wall (a similar note is used in many models). Since the assembly uses an ATX form factor board, you need to screw all eight stand-up screws into the threaded holes marked with the letter “A”. However, not all motherboards belonging to this standard size meet the length and width parameters of 305 × 244 mm. For example, the MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON is narrower by 19 mm, so it cannot be mounted in the case on the right edge. Consequently, when connecting wires from the power supply or installing memory modules in DIMM slots, the textolite will bend. Install these elements more carefully in such cases.

After the motherboard is secured, I personally immediately connect the controls and connectors on the front panel of the case. The front wall of the Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition has two USB 3.0 A-type ports, two 3.5 mm mini-jacks for headphones and a microphone, as well as system power and forced reboot keys. Difficulties can arise only when connecting controls - this is a bundle of wires with connectors Power LED- and Power LED+ (transmit information to the computer status indicator), Power SW (responsible for the operation of the power key), HDD LED- and HDD LED+ (transmits information to the drive activity indicator ), as well as Reset SW (responsible for the operation of the forced reboot button). Some elements may not be on the “face” of the case, since not all devices are equipped, for example, with a Reset key or LED indicators. However, in all cases, these connectors are connected in a specific sequence, as shown in the table below. It’s just that motherboard manufacturers use their own designations for essentially the same pad: JFP1 in MSI motherboards; PANEL in ASUS; PANEL1 in ASRock and F_PANEL in GIGABYTE.

Power LED+	Power LED-	Power SW	Power SW
HDD LED+	HDD LED-	Reset SW	Reset SW

In addition, among the internal connectors on the motherboard there may be contact pads for connecting USB 3.1 and USB 2.0 ports, RGB strips, a TPM module, FP audio and a speaker.

Build your own computer- This is an excellent opportunity to choose computer components in accordance with your individual requirements and preferences. In addition, this allows you to save a considerable amount of money and get exactly what you need, with all the necessary characteristics, without overpaying for assembly and without once again enriching large and not very large office equipment stores, which often sin by “stuffing” cheap components into expensive, sophisticated ones. body and selling it at triple the price.

This article will take you step by step build your own computer, which will be maximally adapted to your personal needs.

Ready desktop computers often do not have the configuration that meets the needs of a specific buyer. It also happens that the computer being sold has a good configuration, but is overvalued in terms of cost. A finished computer may also satisfy you with almost everything, except for one component. This may not even be related to the functional side of the computer, but to the aesthetic one. For example, you may not like the case of the system unit.

On the other hand, by carefully selecting each component of your system, you are not only free to choose components from various manufacturers, but also assemble a computer at a much lower price. You don't have to worry about the warranty. This is an argument that many sellers like to make. ready-made computers to scare inexperienced buyers. By purchasing electronic components separately, you also receive a warranty for each of them, and if any hardware problem arises, you can easily fix it by replacing one or another component under warranty. However, I hasten to reassure you that such problems are quite rare, modern computer components are very reliable, so the likelihood of their failure is quite low. Later in the article we will get acquainted with some technical information regarding individual components and manufacturers of computer components, it will help you in selecting them and assembling a computer with your own hands.

Selecting components to build a computer

Below are descriptions of the computer components you will need to purchase to build your computer. If you have no questions regarding the choice of components for the system unit, you know what it costs and why, or everything has already been purchased and is waiting in the wings, then you can move on to the second part of the article - directly to. But if you don’t fully understand something and have any questions or doubts, it’s better to read this material again in order to ultimately choose what you really need, assemble a computer with your own hands, and not overpay.

Let's consider the composition of the system unit, what will we assemble it from? First of all, this is the processor itself, which we will install on the motherboard. The motherboard, in turn, is the foundation of the computer, where, in addition to the processor, RAM, sound and video cards are installed. Below we will look at how to choose both the “motherboard” and other components.

What, in fact, the “thought process” itself takes place in is the computer’s RAM.

An optical disk drive is designed for reading information from laser disks of various formats. Whether to equip a system unit with it or not is a purely personal matter, it all depends on your goals, objectives, and capabilities. As an option, operating system You can install it using a bootable USB flash drive, and download drivers, programs and games on the Internet.

The power supply sometimes comes with the case, but when assembling the computer yourself, it is better to take it separately. Its main characteristic is output power.

And, finally, such devices that belong to the computer, but are not part of the system unit: monitor, mouse, keyboard, source uninterruptible power supply(which can be done without, but is not advisable).

Processor, motherboard and RAM

Processor speed is important. A powerful processor ensures high speed of the computer. If you are going to play computer games or use design programs, then you need a processor with a clock speed of at least 2 GHz and at least 2 GB of RAM. It is better if these two indicators are higher. Some extreme computer games are very resource-intensive, so you should be prepared to buy a powerful processor, a representative of the high-end AMD or Intel line. Pay attention to such a parameter as cache memory, it works on approximately the same principle as RAM, only much faster and directly affects the speed of the processor. It will be great if its volume is 3 MB or higher. Processors can be supplied in a BOX configuration, which is when it is already equipped with a cooler, or OEM, in which case you will have to buy a cooling system for the processor separately, however, they are relatively inexpensive and available, so this should not be a problem for you.

Read more here: How to choose a processor for your computer>>>

Motherboard

The motherboard is the “foundation” of the computer. Today, several manufacturers are leaders in quality and price: Gigabyte, Asus, Msi, Foxconn, AsRock. Plus, if you're building a powerful gaming computer, it is advisable to take an ATX format “motherboard”, because it contains large quantity slots and connectors, installation and installation are more convenient, and accordingly, you can attach more different things to it.

Before purchasing a motherboard for the computer you are building, make sure that the processor you choose is compatible with it. Pay attention to the socket (socket for installing a processor), it should be similar to the processor socket, otherwise the “stone” will have to be placed on the “mother” with a hammer, and this is not good. Also pay attention to whether it has all the necessary slots and connectors.

More details here: How to choose a motherboard>>>

RAM

RAM is now common in two types: DDR2 and DDR3. DDR2 is already outliving its allotted time, it is being replaced by the faster DDR3, and DDR4 is on its way. Motherboards can support one or both types. But it’s better to install the same type of RAM, of course. The principle is simple - the larger the volume, the better. And, as has been said more than once, for a modern home computer you need at least 2GB.

Even more here: How to choose RAM>>>

Video card

A good graphics card will give you excellent image quality, and is a must for those who will work with graphics or use a DIY computer for computer games. Nvidia and AMD are the most famous brands. Other manufacturers - insofar as. However, it will be extremely difficult for you to “run into” an unscrupulous manufacturer. The fact is that very few people can afford to develop video chips. The vast majority of video card manufacturers use technology and produce their products through licensing from giant manufacturers.

The meaning of the choice here is the same as with RAM - the larger the volume of the video card’s own RAM and its frequency, the more sophisticated toys it will handle. For games, RAM should be at least 1GB; for office, 512MB is enough (or you can get by with the video core built into the processor). No less important is the frequency of the video processor itself (from 600 MHz and higher) and the data bus bandwidth (at least 128 bit).

You can find out more here: How to choose a video card>>>

Hard drive, or hard drive, also known as HDD

In order not to rack our brains about what is more important to us, performance, volume or something else, it is best to install at least two hard drives on your computer. One hard drive – with a high rotation speed of 7200-10000 rpm for the operating system (they are currently being replaced by solid-state SSD drives), and second hard a disk with a speed of at least 5400-7200 rpm for storing files. It is recommended to opt for models with a rotation speed of 7200. They optimally combine access speed and moderate heating.

The primary purpose of a hard drive is long-term data storage. Accordingly, you need to choose its capacity depending on how much of this data you are going to store on it. If you are a movie fan and have a large collection of films, especially if the films are in HD format, then the larger the hard drive capacity, the better. Currently, prices for hard drives have dropped significantly. You can buy a 1TB hard drive quite cheaply. Moreover, the cost of storing 1GB of information decreases significantly with an increase in the total volume of the selected hard drive. When choosing a hard drive, pay attention to such characteristics as volume buffer memory. Currently, models with a buffer of 16, 32 and 64 MB are mainly presented. It is preferable to opt for the latter. Also make sure that you buy a SATA3 type hard drive from good manufacturer and with the provided warranty, this will allow you to repair or replace it free of charge in case of problems.

More details about How to choose a hard drive>>>

Frame

The choice of case will depend on your aesthetic preferences. Some cases come with a pre-installed power supply. If you choose such a case, make sure that the output power of the power supply is sufficient to connect all the necessary system components.

How to choose a computer case >>> read here.

power unit

The best solution would be to purchase a power supply with an uninterruptible power supply (UPS). In any case, you take a case with a built-in power supply or purchase them separately.

But, in any case, the main characteristic of the power supply is the total output power, going through several buses with different voltages. The main bus is the one that produces 12V. In addition to it, there are buses with voltages of 3V and 5V, but the main attention should be paid to the main bus. And the total power of the power supply for all outputs should be 40-50 percent greater than the total power consumed by all components of the system unit, which will make it possible for future independent upgrades of the computer without replacing the power supply with a more powerful one. Well, pay attention to the number of connectors and the length of the cables (at least 45-50 cm), especially if the power supply is located at the bottom.

An article about how to choose a power supply>>>

Optical DVD drive

When purchasing a DVD drive, pay attention to the writing and reading speed; the higher the performance, the better. It is advisable that the drive belongs to a well-known brand, for example, Sony, Pioneer, Samsung, they provide good performance and long service life. It is highly undesirable to purchase a CD-ROM, non-writing DVD drive and other outdated components. However, it is quite difficult to find them on sale now. But prices for Blu-Ray recorders are gradually decreasing, so that they will soon displace DVD drives from store shelves.

About how How to choose an optical drive>>>

And, briefly, about choosing additional accessories for self-assembling a home computer.

Keyboard

There are a huge number of models to suit every taste. If you plan to type a lot, take a closer look at models with a pyramid layout; your hands will not get tired as quickly as with keyboards with a regular layout.
If you are a gamer or music lover, then choose keyboards with special buttons that add additional functionality. This provides additional convenience to music lovers and gamers, while simultaneously increasing the price of such a device.

Learn more about How to choose a keyboard>>>

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Mouse

When choosing a mouse, you need to be guided by approximately the same characteristics as when choosing a keyboard. The main thing is convenience. For some users, the appearance of the device will also be important. Some mice have additional buttons that allow, for example, controlling the browser and the speed of cursor movement on the screen. The mouse should optimally fit the size and shape of your palm. These parameters should be decisive for you when choosing and purchasing this device.

Read more about How to choose a mouse for your computer>>>

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Monitor

The cost of the monitor will depend on the size of its diagonal and resolution. Accordingly, the greater these two indicators, the higher the price. It is desirable that the diagonal be at least 17 inches. However, if you are purchasing a computer for work, then you should not chase too large a diagonal. Large screens more suitable for a multimedia computer. Resolution determines the clarity of the image. Decide how important it is for you and, based on this, choose a monitor model. And lastly, when purchasing a monitor, pay attention to which port(s) is used to connect to the motherboard. The sockets must match each other. Although there are various adapters on sale, it is still better to initially select components that suit each other.

Article001 - How to assemble a system unit from components yourself (v.1.1)

This article will describe how a person with relatively little knowledge of computers can assemble a system unit (SU) from components.

The reason for writing this article is this - there is a type of computer user who is generally quite good at (or beginning to understand) computers, but they themselves have never assembled a computer and have the desire, but do not have detailed guide how exactly to do this (i.e., “theoreticians” and “newbies”).

The author does not claim the uniqueness and “correctness” of the method of its assembly, since there can be many assembly options, depending on various conditions. An experienced assembler can assemble a computer in a slightly different way. This can be compared to different options for solving a mathematical problem, where the result is generally the same.

As a rule, a standard computer consists of:

Monitor;

Keyboards and mice;

From the title it is clear that the methodology for assembling the “system unit” will be explained. Moreover, the case is of the ATX form factor.

Any microATX, flexATX, mini-ITX, BTX are not considered.

The standard system unit consists of nine components. Here they are:

5. CPU cooler

6. hard drive (aka hard)

7. DVD drive (or any type of optical disc drive - further, for simplicity, we will assume that this is a DVD drive)

8. power supply (aka PSU)

So let's get started. The SB assembly consists of three parts. Let's look at each in detail. I won’t describe absolutely everything - there are instruction books for the motherboard and the case for that. I will dwell on the important details.

I. Preparing the body.

First of all, we take the body.

1. [Columns (pegs)]

The case comes with a plastic bag that usually contains the following things:

1.1. There are two types of fastening bolts (with frequent threads and with rare threads.

The photo below clearly shows that on the left there are bolts with sparse threads, and on the right - with frequent threads.

1.2. Hexagonal bolts with a screw hole at the back (the so-called “pins” - for simplicity, I will continue to call them “columns”).

Their cuts also come in two types - with frequent and rare threads. This is clearly visible from below.

1.3. It is also worth checking the following in advance - do the internal threads of the post fit a bolt with a rare or frequent thread?

Bolts with a wide (large) head are good for securing the motherboard - they are easy to tighten and they provide better and more reliable clamping. That's why all the photos show exactly the same bolts.

1.4. PC speaker (aka "tweeter").

[I'll add a photo later]

In top-end cases, the equipment may be richer - additionally included are ties, branded case mounts and holders for hard drives and drives, adapters from 5.25" to 3.5"/2.5", stickers with the name of the manufacturer, additional USB3 ports. 0 and e-SATA and much more...

This bag is needed - you will need columns.

1.5. We take the motherboard and place it on the case tray in the place where it is attached (i.e. the motherboard).

We remember by the holes in the motherboard those places (holes) where the posts need to be secured, then we remove the motherboard so that it does not interfere. Immediately mark the required holes with a marker.

1.6. Then tightly screw the posts in the pallet with pliers or another suitable tool in the marked places.

Sometimes it happens that the posts were already pre-installed - in this case they should, if necessary, be moved to the desired hole and/or screwed tightly to the end.

There should not be any extra posts on the pallet - they will interfere with the installation of the motherboard and may damage it. Usually there are 9 holes (and therefore posts) in an ATX form factor board.

2. [Stub]

2.1. The motherboard package includes a plug for the motherboard connectors.

She looks like this.

2.2. There is a corresponding place at the back of the case for the plug.

2.3. We take the plug and secure it from the inside of the case by pressing hard, very hard :)

3. [Hard drives + DVD drive]

After this, the hard or hards are secured in the body. In conventional cases, the hard drive is fixed with four bolts (two on each side), which are screwed into the holes provided for this purpose:

The hards are secured with thinly threaded bolts.

In top-end (and not so top-end) cases, the manufacturer has the right to change the method of mounting hard drives, guided by the following goals:

Simplification (rarely - complication - for good reasons) of the fixation method to save time and nerves;

Reducing vibration and noise from hard drives;

Using your hands yourself, without the participation of various kinds of tools - pliers, screwdrivers...

In my case, these are special screws with a rubber washer in the middle - they are screwed in by hand.

And we fix the DVD drive with four bolts with rare threads. As a rule, in the uppermost 5.25" slot of the case.

The power supply in modern power supplies can be located either at the top or at the bottom. Although there is a tendency towards a “lower” location of the power supply. It is also secured with four thinly threaded bolts.

Moreover, if the power supply is at the top, there is only one fixation option for it - with the grille facing down. In this position, it takes in hot air from below and passes it through its “insides” to the outside of the body.

If the power supply is at the bottom, it can be fixed either with the grille down or up. Typically, the case manufacturer chooses only one of these two options for fixing the power supply - which one can be determined by the corresponding holes for the bolts.

But there are also often such options when the assembler himself is given a choice - and he can fasten as he wishes, since in this case there are twice as many “holes” - “fasten as you want.”

The answer is simple - because the power supply has a bunch of cables that often interfere with “digging” in the system unit. This saves time, although... this is not so important.

The two photos below show that with two different positions of the power supply, the holes are also in different places.

Fan below:

Fan on top:

II. Preparing the motherboard.

1. [Processor]

We take the motherboard in our hands and place it on the table, first placing a layer of soft material under it - a towel, a thick layer of newspaper or paper - to protect the legs on the back of the board.

Then we open the socket and carefully remove the dark plug designed to protect the “legs”. Before doing this, carefully read the instructions for installing the processor on the motherboard several times. Then you should calmly and slowly, clearly “place” the percent on the socket and close the socket. The percent is placed in the only correct way, since there is a “key” on the side and there is no other way to place it.

But why am I signing here? In the motherboard manual everything is very clearly explained how to do this, and even with photos.

2. [RAM]

So, the processor is in place. Next comes the installation of RAM sticks. To do this, in the slot for the strips, open the latches on the side, of which there are two pieces per strip. Then we take the bar and gently press it into the “socket”. As soon as the bar drops into place, the clamps on the side will move down and “grab” the bar on both sides. We perform this operation for all planks. This operation is also described in more detail in the manual.

They also told me that it is now fashionable to mount the dimmocks on one side - I don’t know whether it’s convenient or not.

The cooler is used to cool the processor during operation. The cooler is “docked” into the surface of the processor not just anyhow, but through a “thermal interface” - thermal paste, which, by filling the unevenness of the “docking” of two metal surfaces, ensures better heat transfer.

In fact, the process of attaching a cooler to a processor with a motherboard deserves a separate article, since this is a rather difficult task (and a broad/controversial topic) for a beginner, because it is necessary to take into account several important factors(in relation to a top cooler):

CPU cooler, method of mounting it, mounting fans, backplate and others;

The thermal paste itself, its thickness/viscosity, thermal conductivity (in relation to the evenness of the cooler base);

Amount of thermal paste applied;

Method of applying thermal paste to both surfaces;

Method of fixing the cooler to the motherboard.

Although it seems that everything is simple - take it with your finger and smear it. For me personally, not everything is so ordinary.

We placed the cooler after the memory sticks because in some cases an already installed cooler interferes with the subsequent installation of the sticks.

III. Final assembly.

1. We bring the case prepared in the first part (with hard drives, drive and power supply) into a horizontal position.

We carefully place the motherboard prepared in the second part (with a cooler and RAM) in the right place and secure it with bolts.

2. [Wires, cables, cables]

Before connecting the video card, you should connect the power cables, interface cables, case fan wires, USB cables and wires, audio, power, reset and led. All this is again described in detail in the motherboard manual.

2.1. We connect the 24-pin power wire of the motherboard and then the 4-pin (or 8-pin) power wire of the processor to the motherboard.

2.2. We connect the thin wires power, reset, power led and hdd led (according to the pictures in the manual), as well as the USB2.0 and USB3.0 connectors (if any) and the audio wires of the connectors on the front of the case;

2.3. Then comes the turn of SATA interface cables - from the motherboard to the corresponding connector on the hard drives.

Don’t forget about the wires of the case fans (we also connect them to the corresponding connectors on the motherboard according to the manual).

2.4. And last are the power cables for SATA hard drives - from the power supply to the corresponding connector on the hard drive.

3. [Video card]

The last thing we connect is the video card. We take it in our hands, carefully bringing it closer to the PCI-E connector on the motherboard and pressing it until it goes in completely. And we secure it on the left with two bolts for reliable fixation.

Don’t forget to connect additional power cables from the power supply to the video card. Usually they are either. "pin" is the number of pins on the power connector.

And finally, when finished, we get the following picture:

Iron used:

Processor Intel Core i5 2500K, 4600 MHz, 1.35 V

Cooler ThermalRight Archon, TR TY-150 x 1000 rpm, TR TY-140 x 1300 rpm

Thermal interface Arctic Cooling MX-2

Motherboard ASRock P67 Extreme6 P67 (bios P1.60)

Memory DDR3, 2 x 4 Gb, 1333 @ 2133 MHz, HMT351U6CFR8C-H9, 10-11-10-30-2T, 1.59 V

Hard drive 500 Gb, WD5000AAKS (SATA2, 7200 rpm, 16 Mb)

1.5 Tb, WD15EARS x 3

2 Tb, WD20EARS x 2

640 Gb, WD6400AADS x 1

160 Gb, Seagate ST3160815AS (backup OS/off)

1.5 Tb, Seagate ST31500541AS

2 TB, Seagate ST2000DL003

2 Tb, Samsung HD204UI

Lian Li PC-A70FB case, and 4 original built-in fans.

Reobass Zalman ZM-MFC1 Plus

PSU AeroCool Strike-X 1100 (1100 W, 80+ Gold)

Video Inno 3D Geforce GTX570 (732/1464/3800, 1,000 V) - reference CO replaced by Zalman VF3000F

Monitor 24" Acer P246H 1920*1080

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For those who decide to build their own computer from scratch, rather than buy a ready-made system unit, it will be useful to know how to correctly assemble individual elements into a single workable whole. I present to your attention a guide on how to assemble a computer.

What to buy

The first step is to buy the minimum required kit to start the computer

• frame
• source
• motherboard
• CPU cooling system
• RAM
• Video card (discrete is not always required)
• HDD

It is necessary to understand that all purchased items must be compatible.

When purchasing a motherboard and a processor, the socket (in other words, the platform where the processor is inserted) on the board and the CPU must be the same. This parameter is always indicated in the technical specifications, for example, Intel Core i3-4130 has an LGA1150 socket, we can easily install it on ASRock board H81M. It is also necessary to take into account the connector for RAM; at the time the article was published, the most common is DDR3, therefore, you need to buy DDR3 memory.
We start with the case, which will be the “home” for all other components. After unpacking, unscrew the side panel.
We see ready-made holes for mounting the system board. All you need to do is “try on” the board to the holes and secure it. There are a lot of holes, since some cases are designed for motherboards of different sizes (form factors).

However, before attaching the motherboard, you need to install some elements on it.

Installing an Intel Processor and Cooling System

Open the processor socket using the latch shown in the figure. The thing is quite delicate, you don’t need to make a lot of effort.

After opening the slot, pay attention to the processor. In the case of Intel, there is a special edge and a guide on the motherboard that will prevent you from inserting the processor incorrectly. Which makes our life much easier; those who are familiar with electronics know how to tinker with microcircuits in order to solder them correctly to the board. As a rule, there are no guides on the board, only a dot in the corner of the chip indicating the first leg.

After installing the processor, we complete the procedure by protecting the socket: we close it in the same way as we opened it before.

The next important step is connecting the cooling system.

A cooler is often included with the purchased processor; if it is not there, the processor manufacturer has a list of recommended ones for connection.

You definitely need to remember about thermal paste. Some radiators already have thermal paste applied; if it is not there, you need to apply it.
Please note that the cooling system is secured using four latches. They should fit perfectly into the holes on the board, in the corners next to the socket.

Actually, we install it in the holes, and begin to press without much effort until you hear four clicks.

All we have to do is connect the fan to the power system; on the board the connector is designated CPUF AN, so we connect it to it)

If you bought cooling separately, you decided that the standard one is not enough for you. Then you will definitely need to apply thermal paste. Simply apply a small amount to the center of the processor and spread it over the entire surface using an old credit card or discarded plastic card to precisely fit the surface of the processor and cooler

Note: When buying a cooling system, do not forget to peel off the film

System Installation with CPU and Heat Sink - AMD

Consider that in the case of an AMD CPU, installing a cooling system

First, unlock the socket by pulling the metal handle directly adjacent to the edge

The legs of AMD processors are positioned so that they can be inserted into the slot in only one way: as in the case of Intel, it is impossible to install the processor differently than the manufacturer intended. Inserted and secured.

Then apply thermal paste...


Combining the processor plane and the base cooling system

The mounting methods for coolers are different, and they are all indicated in the manual; there should be no difficulties. In our case, next to the socket we have a plastic base with protrusions. The metal mount comes complete with cooling.

Installing memory (RAM)

The last element we can install in this phase is the RAM.
To do this, you need to find the RAM slots located next to the processor socket.

Before installing memory, you should check your motherboard's manual to find out which slots to install in first (if the number of modules is less than four). In our case, these are blue slots. Opening the latches

Inserting modules properly

After installation in the memory slot, return the plastic latches to their original position

At this stage, you should receive a motherboard with a processor, cooling and memory modules. Let's put everything aside for a while and move on to the case and power supply.

Installing the power supply

The power supply is installed at the bottom of the case.

Secure it with the fan DOWN.

This position provides it with ideal operating conditions: the device constantly has access to cold air from under the body and at the same time excludes the entry of warm air, which is thrown out of it onto other elements, and nothing is heated additionally.
On the rear panel of the case, secure the power adapter by screwing four bolts.

If the power supply does not have removable wires, then we simply pass all the wires through the rubber bushings on back panel housings.
If it is modular (removable cables), then you first need to connect the necessary cables, including PCI Express power (for the video card) and SATA (for storage media).

Only now we pass the entire bundle of wires from the power supply through rubber hoses behind the tray with the motherboard.

Installing the motherboard into the case

We insert the board into the case; there should be a specially allocated place in the case for it.


We do not install any gaskets or pads, we only use the set included in the kit (bolts plus stands)


Then you need to connect the external USB ports located on the front panel, as well as the Power and Reset buttons, two indicators indicating the activity of storage media and power.
First we look for a connector labeled as USB, then we connect the plug

And then find the pins (JFP1) associated with the buttons and LEDs, connect them to the connector, according to the markings nearby.

Installation media (HDD/SSD)

Speaking about mounting hard drives, again, everything is individual. In our case, we have a rack with plastic slides. We attach the hard drive to these slides and insert it into the rack.

The next necessary step is to connect the media/media to the motherboard using SATA signal cables, as well as supplying power to them.

To do this, find small connectors on the board labeled SATA. In the instructions for the board, we check which of them are the fastest (SATA 3 - 6 Gb/s), and it is to them that we connect the disk on which we will install the system, especially if the system is installed on an SSD. Other media will be fully satisfactory and have a slower speed (SATA 2 - 3 Gbit/s).

First of all, connect the power cable, and then the signal cable

Installing a video card

The video card is the last element (within basic configuration) that needs to be installed.


Look for the first free PCI Express x 16 port (blue, closer to the processor cooling system in the photo below). First, let's look at the traffic jams. 99% of currently available graphics cards require the space occupied by two dies on the back

As with memory module slots, the PCI Express slot has small protrusions that will prevent you from misplacing a video card. You simply have no choice, you will do everything right.

Then we attach the video card.

Connecting power to the motherboard

The motherboard is powered through two wires. One of them is a 24-pin connector, shown in the picture below. Located on the right side of the board, next to the RAM.

The second cable is for powering the heart of the computer – the processor. insert it into the slot located in the upper left corner.

All that remains is to “feed” our video card. The most energy-intensive (but powerful) models require two plugs, as can be seen in the photo.

Before closing the case, you need to check the operation of the power button, reset button and LED information (the part that tells you that your computer is on, and others that indicate HDD / SSD activity).

Results

The idea that there is something extremely complex in the assembly is erroneous. It really takes a lot of effort to ruin something. Equipment manufacturers take care of user convenience by introducing physical restrictions: the processor can only be inserted into the socket in one position, and it is impossible to connect the power connector to the wrong side or to the wrong connector. The worst thing that can happen is that you might forget about one of the cables. But don't worry about this: the computer won't do anything, it just won't start until the wires are connected correctly. Good luck!